• A call for Lab Grown Transparency

    Among the challenges of assessing the lab-grown diamond market is the lack of published data on the sector. That’s largely because none of the companies operating in the space are publicly traded, which would require them to disclose metrics such as sales, profit and production. It’s largely through public reports by miners such as Alrosa, De Beers (via Anglo American), Petra Diamonds and others that one can gauge the size of the natural-diamond market. Their reports also provide important anecdotal information about trends and the state of the market. The same is true for the retail sector, with Signet Jewelers serving as a bellwether for US jewelry sales, Chow Tai Fook in Hong Kong and China, and the likes of Richemont and LVMH reflecting the state of high-end jewelry. In addition, regular import and export data from governments in major diamond centers such as Belgium, India and the US provide insights about the global trade. Very little of that exists in the Lab Grown market. Only India has separate Harmonized System (HS) codes — the identifiers that authorities use for…

    July 22, 2021
  • Lightbox and Lab-Grown Diamonds: Tracing the Price Trajectory

    New York—In 2018, De Beers sent shockwaves through the industry by announcing it would begin selling lab-grown diamonds. The diamond miner and marketer made the announcement just ahead of Las Vegas market week. But it did so with the caveat that its man-made diamonds would be used in fashion jewelry only under a new brand called Lightbox. The brand has a clearly defined pricing structure: $200 for a piece set with a 0.25-carat diamond; $400 for a half-carat diamond; $600 for 0.75 carats; and $800 for 1 carat. The news sparked conversations about what would happen to lab-grown diamond prices now that an industry giant had lumbered into the ring and sent an unmistakable message about what it believes the stones are worth. Three years in, National Jeweler is checking in with diamond market experts to see what actually happened since Lightbox hit the market. The Immediate Effects Prior to De Beers’ May 2018 announcement, wholesale lab-grown diamond prices were high across the board, industry analyst Edahn Golan told National Jeweler in a recent interview, with wide margins for all sectors. Then the news…

    July 21, 2021
  • Cartier Descendant Launches a Lab-Grown Diamond Line

    Los Angeles—He hails from one the world’s richest jewelry legacies, but Jean Dousset is fully embracing industry innovation. The great-great-grandson of Cartier founder Louis-François Cartier, Dousset learned the traditions of Paris’ most esteemed high jewelers on Place Vendôme, working for Chaumet, Boucheron, and Van Cleef & Arpels. His role with the latter jeweler brought him to Beverly Hills to open a company showroom. In Los Angeles, he decided to make a name for himself, creating his own brand and specializing in custom pieces for private clients, gaining notoriety for his engagement rings for the who’s who of Hollywood. Dousset is the man behind both Amy Adams’ and Eva Longoria’s engagement rings, and recently, Paris Hilton’s. However, Dousset is also interested in what the more typical bride wants. Last summer, he launched Oui by Jean Dousset, a line of engagement rings focused on offering consumer-friendly price points. He became even more aware of bridal shopper pain points this year, when he conducted a survey among 400 of his email subscribers. Forty-eight percent said their ideal engagement ring center diamond carat weight is…

    July 19, 2021
  • AGS Laboratories Will Resume Grading Laboratory-Grown Diamonds

    The nonprofit lab expands its mission of consumer protection to the laboratory-grown market AGS Laboratories is pleased to announce that they will resume grading laboratory-grown diamonds, a service they previously offered until 2012. The enhanced report is the result of over a year of research and development to create a product that helps jewelry buyers better understand the qualities of their laboratory-grown diamonds. The Laboratory-Grown Diamond Grading Report will be in a digital format and is a component of Only My Diamond® (OMD) for Laboratory-Grown Diamonds, which will contain additional educational information, including a special section on the 4Cs of laboratory-grown diamonds. Other noteworthy features of the report include: Unique color and clarity grading nomenclature, enhanced educational information, and a focus on precision cutting. The only one of its kind offering AGS Ideal® laboratory-grown diamonds. Two laser inscriptions, which will clearly identify that the diamond is laboratory-grown. Growth details regarding the laboratory-grown diamond. “As the market expands, consumers need a diamond grading report that clearly explains the characteristics of laboratory-grown diamonds,” says Jason Quick, Executive Director of AGS Laboratories. “Our lab was founded…

    August 3, 2020
  • The Golan Q1 2020 Diamond Market Report–LGD

    Healthy lab-grown sales were reported in January and deep into February. Rough LGD supply from China was halted due to theChinese New Year vacations that started in mid-January. Factories were due to open in February, however, production did not startuntil late in the month, and then only partially. The travel ban posed an obstacle to purchasing, with producers willing to ship only if buyers were willing to accept parcels withoutseeing them first. That kind of trust is limited. And by mid-March shortages in HPHT were reported.According to LGD manufacturers and wholesalers, sales of polished ended abruptly in early March and in early April was yet toresume.LGD prices kept steady in the first couple of months, while business continued. The exception was a price decline in thirds andquarters over a supply/demand imbalance. In addition to the pandemic induced impact, patent issues also impacted CVD activity, evident in February. As a result, HPHT was inbetter demand, leading to firm pricing.It is difficult to predict what will happen to LGD demand and prices once the COVID-19 storm passes and trade resumes. One LGDjewelry…

    April 10, 2020
  • CDC announces the world’s largest untreated High-quality Created Diamond

    Recently, Created Diamonds Company(CDC) announced up-to-date the world’s largest high-quality created diamonds, which is supreme in both colour and clarity while without any post-growth treatments or enhancements. Shortly the stone caused much of a stir in the LGD industry. The diamond has been identified by the IGI (International Gemmological Institute) with relevant specifications showing below: Weight: 7.06 carats, Color: F, Clarity: VVS2, Cut: 3EX, Fluorescence: None Provided by Hangzhou ChaoRan Diamond Co., Ltd.(ChaoRan), this super diamond was created through CVD ( Chemical Vapor Deposition) method. According to ChaoRan staff, before being designed, cut and polished ,the rough stone weighed 28 carats. And the final come-out of the polished stone reached 7.06 carat. Which made it currently the world’s largest unheated high quality CVD round diamond. CVD (Chemical Vapor Deposition) is one of the 2 methods to create diamonds. HPHT (High Pressure High Temperature) represents the other. Speakingof the 2 technologies, HPHT was applied years earlier than its counterpart CVD tocreating gem-quality diamonds. HPHT diamonds has already emerged in the jewellerymarkets in 2010; while CVD diamonds started to show up from 2013 . In terms of grades, the colour of HPHT diamond usually can reachto D-F, but most of thestones’ clarity ranges around SI.While according to the industry, the CVD technology seems alwayslack of control in colour stability. A large proportion of CVD products need post-growth treatments or enhancements in orderto get better grading . Statistic shows that, a USA based…

    March 21, 2020
  • Lightbox Jewelry Seizes the Lab-Grown Diamond Moment

    Below, Coe talks to JCK aboutthe status of Lightbox’s new factory near Portland, Ore.; what the brand haslearned about consumers’ take on colored diamonds; and why the company recentlyintroduced grading reports for its products. What are your biggest initiatives for 2020? The opening of the new manufacturing facility in Oregon. It’s already well advanced. The building is complete and services are complete. They are literally installing reactors as we speak. It will come online the second half of this year and will give us significantly more volume of product—something like 200,000 polished carats per year. That will enable us to get into much wider distribution than today. Today, our production is significantly lower because we’re doing it out of Element Six in the U.K. This factory is a game changer. It’s going to ramp up over a period of time; the idea is that by the end of the year, it will be fully running. How are sales? They’re going well. Very positive. We’re doing a trial with Reeds—we’re in 45 of their doors and in two doors with Bloomingdale’s. The trial runs through the end of…

    March 17, 2020
  • GSI ANNOUNCES LAUNCH of LGX Complete™ GRADING REPORT

    The grading report will be themost comprehensive available on the market today for lab-grown diamonds Gemological Science International (GSI), one of the largestgemological organizations in the world, announced today that it will startoffering its new LGX Complete™ for lab-grown diamonds that do not have anypost-growth treatments or enhancements. The LGX Complete™ is the mostcomprehensive grading report available on the market today for lab-growndiamonds. The new GSI report will include if the lab-grown diamond wasproduced by HPHT (High-Pressure High Temperature) or CVD (Chemical VaporDeposition) process and if it’s “As Grown,” which is a commonly used term inthe industry for lab-grown diamonds that do not have any post-growth treatmentsor enhancements. GSI is the only major laboratory to issue grading reports forlab-grown diamonds with these disclosures. As lab-grown diamonds become moreaccepted by consumers it’s important that all relevant information is in placein order to maintain consumer confidence in our industry. “Consumer confidence is key and consumers want more informationand complete transparency about the natural and lab-grown diamonds they arebuying, “said Debbie Azar President and Co-Founder of GSI. GSI is a world leader ingemological services,…

    March 16, 2020
  • Retail Margins Could Be Boosting Man-made Diamond Sales

    While lower prices as well as marketed ethical and sustainable benefits relative to that of natural diamonds has been the prominent narrative around man-made diamonds, a seemingly less-obvious factor is also likely helping to drive the product: the profit margin they offer retailers.  When analysing the wholesale and retail prices of unbranded man-made and natural diamonds, it appears that the retail gross margin of man-made diamonds in popular carat-sizes is as much as 1.8-times that of natural diamonds (see below figures). To further quantify this, for example, in some cases aretailer would theoretically only have to sell $5,000 worth of man-madediamonds to generate the same gross profit as selling almost $10,000 worth ofequivalent natural diamonds. Here, “gross margin” is considered to be aretailer’s top-line profit when selling a diamond, i.e. the sales pricerelative to the wholesale cost of the diamond.  This is important metric for a retailer selling bothman-made and natural diamonds because the theoretical high gross profit marginof man-made diamonds serves as an implied incentivize to prioritize sellingman-made diamonds over natural –as long as the profit margin differentialremains in place. Further,…

    March 11, 2020
  • Canada Trade Releases Created iamonds Guidelines

    TheCanadian Jewellers Association (CJA) has issued a guide to advertisinglab-grown diamonds in response to a rise in marketing of the product toconsumers in the country. The CJA based its rules on a number of Canadian legal sources, including the Competition Act and the Canadian Guidelines for Gemstones. It also takes into account the US Federal Trade Commission’s (FTC) Jewelry Guides, as well as other international rule books. “These guidelines are intended to assist industry trade members in presenting lab-grown diamonds in compliance with Canadian law, and avoid consumers being misled by unsubstantiated or false claims,” the CJA said last week. The rules state that when used alone, the word “diamond” can refer only to a mined diamond. Sellers must state that a lab-grown stone is either a “lab-grown,” “lab-created” or “synthetic” diamond, with the descriptive term immediately preceding the word “diamond.” “Neither word shall be given greater prominence or emphasis than the other, nor may they be separated,” CJA noted. The group also urged retailers to make sure any claims from a supplier or manufacturer are verified and not misleading…

    March 8, 2020
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